The first big decision was brunch or lunch, which would determine our beverage selection- bellini's or wine. After perusing the menu, we decided to order a bunch of lunch plates to share. Once our waitress took our order (wine included) we were brought over a tray of warm foccaccio with a small bowl of creamy ricotta that was topped with a pool of fruity olive oil. This was the perfect nibble to accompany my earthy Tuscan Sangiovese.
Then came the feast- escarole with pancetta dressing topped with a poached egg, creamy stratecelli with procutto and pears, pickled baby fennel (my favorite), mushrooms with rosemary, eggplant, -n'udo the much talked about spreadable spicy sausage-, and soppressata. I didn't have any pasta, but the table next to us ordered the Carbonara topped with a duck egg and the Cavatelli, both of which smelled heavenly and cemented my desire to return. If you want a brunch dish, they offer up Uova in Purgatoio, which are poached eggs with tomatoes, rosemary and pecorino or you could choose the Crespelle di Uova, egg crepes with fontina and proscuitto cotto which Colleen deemed 'amazing'. Again, no dessert, but the Bomboloni all Toscana (donuts with bittersweet chocolate) I spied looked incredible!
When thinking of a brunch place, A Voce proves it definitely pays to venture from the usual places to find spectacular food in a relaxing environment.
I'm not sure if it's the cold weather or all the family gatherings that have me craving Italian food, but it'a all I want to eat all the time. Luckily, I had been reading a lot about Giano's and when I was asked to choose a place for a bunch of us to eat on Saturday, I figured it was time to give it a try. Originally the reservation was for 4, but with an extra person joining last minute I needed to call to change to accommodate us all. After the owner let me know no 5 tops were available when I said we could just squeeze at a 4 top, he was happy that we could make it work.
We arrived at 9 and the place was packed, but luckily we didn't have to wait and were seated right away. The room is a hybrid wine bar/restaurant, with high rectangular tables up front where you can grab a glass of wine and a bite to eat and regular tables right behind (there is also a garden, but being winter I wasn't able to see it.) Our waitress was awesome! Not only was she on the money with all her recommendations, but she was extremely patient as we all tried different tastes of wine before deciding on a Chilean Carmenere. Typically I would have ordered Italian wine, but I tried their Nebbiolo and Barbera d'Alba and was not impressed.
The menu is divided into two sections: "Facing the Past" and "Facing the Future" which showcase traditional Italian dishes as well as those updated for the 21st century. I started with the Quail Stuffed with Dates and Shrimp all Wrapped in Bacon and while each individual component was cooked perfectly, the dish as a whole did not impress. The Butternut Squash soup was the favorite of the table with it's balsamic reduction adding a nice acidity to counterbalance the overall sweetness of the soup. The others at the table opted for the Arugula salad with Oranges, Fennel and Apple, which was a nice, light dish to start the meal before diving into the hearty fare that was soon to arrive.
I had read about the Butternut Squash Risotto with Gorganzola Fondue and knew that I had to try it! The pungent cheese mixed with the sweet squash topped off with crunchy amaretti cookies was a show stopper! I will have dreams about this combination until I can return to enjoy it all over again. The table also had the Lasagna, which was a gooey, meaty masterpiece. The Taglioni with Fish Roe and Truffles was also a hit! Combining two such pungent flavors may have backfired, but they complemented and elevated each other to new heights. The last pasta we tried was the Pasta Alla Norma, which is the classic Sicilian dish of tomatoes, eggplant and ricotta and I must say, it lived up to similar dishes I had in Italy. If you're not in the mood for pasta, Giano's offers many meat and fish options. The special of the day was Pork rolled with a Chestnut Stuffing, which was on my short list for dinner. The waitress informed us that among the more popular dishes, she would recommend the Pork with Eggplant Caponata, Beef Cheeks braised in Red Wine, Chicken Stuffed with Ricotta and the Orata sauteed with Porcini mushrooms.
As usual, I didn't have room for dessert, but of course needed to see what was on offer. The list was short, but had the old standbys-Panna Cotta, Tiramisu and of course, a cheese plate. I had a really great experience at Giano- delicious food, warm ambiance and a truly fantastic staff! I am glad that it is only a few blocks from my apartment for I can see it becoming my new go-to neighborhood Italian.
A Voce
10 Columbus Circle, 3rd Floor
212-832-2523
www.avocerestaurant.com
Prices:
Brunch: Dolci $10-12, Antipasti $6-25, Primi $17-25, Uovo e Secondi $13-24, Contori $6-7
Lunch: Antipasti $6-16, Primi $17-25, Secondi $22-34, Contori $6-7
Diner: Antipasti $6-16, Primi $17-25, Secondi $11-34, Contori $6-7
Dessert: $3-10, Formaggi 3 for $14, 5 for $19
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